Dive Larnaca, Limassol and Paphos
"Air in your BC, Diver's on air, 1,2,3 –ROLL!"
My first dive on the Zenobia had begun, we made our way to the bow of the rib and began our descent down the line.
18m below us the enormous wreck of the Zen came into sight – this was what it was all about!
Having dived wrecks in the UK and Red Sea I had come to Cyprus to dive one of the top wrecks in Europe accessible to recreational divers. I was diving with Carl from Dive-In and we were the only two in the wreck that morning.
The wreck lies on her side on the sandy bed at 42m but her sheer size means her top rail is at 17m – making it accessible to everyone from Open Water Divers to the most experienced Technical divers.
We progressed along the hull and dropped over the "side" above the bridge. The wreck is in such good condition still that the buttons on the control desk can be clearly seen. Progressing along the wreck level with the crane, the sheer size of the wreck becomes evident, underneath the lifeboat station the Groupers hang out – they are used to divers and so remain still until the last minute – suddenly disappearing into one of the many doorways into the wreck.
The entrance to the Upper Car Deck is halfway along the wreck and is breathtaking as, hanging onto an old mooring line, it is possible to see the dozens of trucks spilling out of the wreck over the seabed below – they were so complete yet still.
Progressing further still we made our way along to the "hanging truck" – an articulated lorry which is literally hanging vertically from the original chain which secured it to the deck of the ferry. Its trailer is at 45° to it's cabin and it's unbelievable that after 25 years its is still hanging there.
This was our turning point so we made our way back to the lifeboats – this is where all the smaller fish are, damsels, small parrot fish, amberjacks to name just a few – I spent about 10 mins here just watching them all.
Slowly we made our way back to the line and ascended to the 5m safety stop bar. I couldn't get over how fantastic the dive was – and I had only seen a small fraction of the wreck – I think I was going to be doing more than the 2 dives I had booked!!!
Back at the surface I couldn't get the reg out fast enough to start talking about the dive – it really is a good job I can't talk underwater – or it would have been a very noisy dive as I exclaimed at all the sites!!
That afternoon I was back in the water for more – this time being dropped off at the stern. We dropped onto the prop – it was huge and looking at it from behind the stern is an amazing site. We swam along the ferry doors – huge structures – over which the trucks once rolled. Yellow fin barracuda were darting up and down the doors herding their smaller prey, a group of grey Manereys hung off in the distance. Suddenly at the "top" of the doors looking down on the sandy bottom there are more complete trucks with their trailers lying eerily on their sides like Dinky toys. In the distance the "Egg Truck" a lorry which was full of eggs, hundreds of which survived the sinking and lay spread out over the sea bed (some have not survived divers poor buoyancy quite so well!!). A look at the winding gear behind the doors brings another truck, upright but no longer connected to its restraining chain. Further along and under the funnel is another home to the Maneries and Groupers which hide in the shadows.
More trucks lie upside-down at 30m – bridging the funnel with the Upper Car Deck. Their wheels, axles and tyre treads still clearly visible through the encroaching algae.
Ascending to 21m we entered the wreck for the first time into the accommodation. It is lit from the broken windows above and makes for a fascinating swim-through. Passing under and over redundant cables, collapsed formica and abandoned curtains and blankets, a toilet and washbasins – more good buoyancy practice - the accommodation ends at the restaurant – the serving counter clearly visible below us. Out of the last window and we are back on the hull at 18m – Amazing! Again my laughter could evidently be heard almost before I had surfaced – what an incredible dive!
I still hadn't had enough so the next morning I was back descending the line for my first every "proper" wreck penetration. We entered the Upper Car Deck through a doorway just below the shot line. Torches on we descended to 30m – suddenly as my eyes became accustomed to the dark I realised there were trucks below and in front of us. We floated over them and alongside them – the blue glow from the huge exit clearly visible in the distance at all times.
It was incredible to see these huge monsters crushed and mangled and yet so still and peaceful, the force of the sinking must have been incredible to do so much damage to the cabins and trailers. The trucks lie at all angles – some facing the stern, some the bow – glass headlights catch the torchlight and huge radiator grills – still showing the red paint loom up in front, suddenly a blue and white "keep left" arrow shines brightly ahead.
The lift shaft entrance is at 30m and provides access to other decks (and further dives!!) Towards the back of the Upper Car Deck the trucks lie on their sides piled up beside me with their wheels, tyres and "curly" joining cables exposed small damsel fish – orange in the torch light dart in an out of the wreckage and white "slimey" algae covers some of the tyres.
After 15mins we exited though the huge entrance we had seen the day before – passing over the "bone lorry" an open trailer which once allegedly contained a few unfortunate animals – or some frozen meat!!
We climbed slowly up to the lifeboats and hung out with fish again for a while before making our way back to the line. The barracuda were hunting again slicing like knifes through the water and snapping at the smaller fish – clouds of which surrounded us as we made our ascent. A one-eyed baby trigger fish kept us company on the 5m bar as we watched the activity below. w.
This has to be one of the best dives I have ever done – all done on a 12l tank a 5mm suit and no deco!!
Since that first week in Cyprus I have been back for 3 more week-long holidays and dived the wreck twice every day. No dive is ever the same, morning, afternoon, summer, winter, sun, cloud, 18m or 40m, inside or outside the wreck the light, the views and the fish life on her varies every time but the one thing is guaranteed – it is NEVER dull!!